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The Daily Face - April 13, 2011- The Jazz Singer

under eyes: Make Up For Ever HD Concealer in 325

eyeliner: MAC Blacktrack gel liner

eye shadow: NARS in Galapagos, Make Up For Ever in Aqua Cream 15, MAC in Satin Taupe

eye brows: filled with The Body Shop black eye pencil

eye lashes: false lashes by Mattesse on top (#1565) and bottom (#49)                

cheeks: MAC in Harmony

lips: NARS Shanghai Express

I was inspired to do today’s look when looking at Brassai photos of the 20s.  Everyone looks so cool and glamorous.  First I lined the upper and lower inner rims of the lids with Blacktrack.  Then I applied the Aqua Creme over the lid from lash line to above the crease, reaching all the way to the eyebrow on the inner corners of the eyes.  I diffused this shadow around the outer corners on the eyes and all the away around the lower lash line.  The 20’s was all about vampy looking flappers so shadow was heavy and dark.  The only place there shouldn’t be shadow in on the brow bone.  Next I applied Satin Taupe to the crease reaching up to the inner corner of the brow, covering the Aqua Cream.  The Aqua cream will only show through on the inner corners of the eyes and on the lid reaching toward the crease.  I also applied the Satin Taupe beneath my lower lash line.  Finally I applied Galapagos (the darkest shade) from the crease, slightly up to the corner of the brow, and all the way around the eye diffusing outward.

If you feel like you’re putting on A TON of shadow when you try this and that is because you are!  This look is all about layering.  Even though you are covering the lighter shade with each subsequent darker shade you should be able to see a least a hint of each color.  Don’t cover each color completely so it disappears, instead think about building layers so that you can see the Satin Taupe diffusing out from under the Galapagos and the Aqua Cream from under the Satin Taupe.  And you are taking the shadow pretty dramatically far from the lids because once you put on the false lashes it will hide some of the shadow.

I usually use individual false lashes, but for this I used strips, because I’m not trying to create a look that feel natural of individuals.  I apply them with a tweezers, starting in the center and then working my way out to the corners.

I penciled in my brows with a black pencil, again because I’m not trying to look natural.  The dark brows should sort of melt into the dark shadow that is right underneath the inner corner of the brows.  Another cool thing to do is cover the brows with wax and foundation so they disappear and then pencil them in, a la Edith Piaf.

I applied blush only to the underneath of my cheekbones for definition.  The apples should be left bare.

I used a dark red/fushia lip shade here, but you can go even darker than this!  To a flapper the darker the lipstick, the better!

Here’s another photo to better show the under eyes and false lashes.